From the Altmühlsee to the cabbage village of Heglau

From the railway station in Gunzenhausen, first follow the signs towards Altmühlsee. The official signposting for the "Seenländer" begins shortly before the bridge over the main road.

Water and boats accompany you on the first part of this stage. You turn westwards and are soon at the outlet structure. A good place to pause for a moment before the big hike begins. With a depth of 4 to 5 metres, the structure is the deepest part of the Altmühlsee. From this vantage point you have a beautiful view of the 25 metre high water fountain.

The route continues. Past the shepherd's island, "Der Seenländer" follows the western shore of the Altmühlsee to the Wald lake centre. The route is mostly on level ground through shady woodland, along the edge of the forest and through meadows and fields.

The few villages close to the route are hardly touched by the path. With the exception of Gothendorf. You cross the village and have the opportunity to take a look at the pretty village chapel. After Gothendorf, you reach the Altmühlsee-Zuleiter. But you won't be following it for long, because "Monte Gero" is waiting for you. Don't worry, you will be able to climb it without mountain boots.

This vantage point was created almost half a century ago from excavated material during the construction of the Altmühlsee reservoir, which began flooding in 1985. Today, the elevation is overgrown with grass and trees. The plateau offers a wide view of the Wiesmet, southern Germany's most important meadow breeding area, and of the small town of Ornbau. Incidentally, its nearby neighbourhood, the village of Gern, was the inspiration for the name "Monte Gero".

It is a short descent from Monte Gero. Just a few minutes' walk away is the beach on the island directly on the Altmühlsee-Zuleiter with its beach house, boat hire and beer garden. But maybe you can't wait, because you've already seen your next destination, Ornbau, from above. Follow the signs in a northerly direction and cross the impressive five-arched Altmühl bridge to reach the small medieval town.

In Ornbau you can stop for refreshments in the beer garden on the island of Gern (Am Anger, 91737 Ornbau, Tel.: 09826/655340).

With its gates, towers and walls, Ornbau exudes plenty of historical charm. The town was first mentioned in a document in 838. The original fortifications of the medieval dwarf town date back to the 13th century. Bastions, gate castles, kennels and walls made of quarry stone and ashlar, which were built in the 15th century, can still be seen today.
The vaulted four-arched Altmühl Bridge is Ornbau's landmark and is two hundred years younger. From here, the mighty river front of the town fortifications, the Lower Gate and the Catholic parish church of St James can be clearly seen. The figure of St Nepomuk, a sculpture from 1736, is enthroned on the apex of the bridge. The shape of the old town buildings also dates mainly from the 18th century, although many of the buildings are even older at their core.

On the northern outskirts of Ornbau, "Der Seenländer" initially leads eastwards. It passes the Kappelwasen and Heglauer Wasen nature reserves. The surrounding species-rich wet meadows are adorned with countless flowering plants, especially in summer. For a view over this enchanting landscape, flowering meadows and bird breeding grounds, we recommend another tiny climb to the "Schnepfenbuck" viewpoint shortly after Hirschlach. From the "Schnepfenbuck" viewpoint, follow the signs in an easterly direction to Heglau.

In this district of Merkendorf, everything revolves around cabbage: every year on the third Sunday in September, Heglau celebrates the cabbage festival with the Merkendorf Cabbage Queen, cabbage pralines and cabbage cheese. Those who book in advance can take part in a guided tour of the Merkendorfer Kraut GmbH farm. Now in its second generation, the family business grows white cabbage, red cabbage, savoy cabbage and pointed cabbage on around two hectares. The Merkendorf white cabbage is processed fresh into sauerkraut.

However, the history of cabbage growing goes back many generations further. At the height of the 18th century, Merkendorf cabbage farmers not only supplied neighbouring markets. They were also purveyors to the court at the margrave's palace in Ansbach and the summer residence in Triesdorf. In the heyday of cabbage cultivation, they even travelled as far as today's Württemberg.

Did you pick up some fresh sauerkraut from the farm shop or a packet of cabbage noodles with Merkendorf red cabbage? Go ahead, the last stage is not long. From Heglau, the route takes you southwards back to the Altmühlsee. You reach Muhr am See through the Mönchswald forest. The town's landmark is its historic half-timbered gatehouse, which was first built in 1551 and renovated in 1752. But you are drawn to the AIZ and so you walk down Stadelner Straße to Schlossstraße, where you will find the Altmühlsee Information Centre on your right.

Culture and nature come together at the AIZ in Muhr a.See. Since 2004, the Altmühlsee Festival has been held on the open-air stage every year from the end of June to the end of July. The audience can look forward to family theatre, modern interpretations of classical texts and plays that are critical of the times.

In the environmental centre of the Bavarian Bird Protection Association (LBV), a permanent multimedia exhibition provides information about the special habitat of the Altmühlsee. Many bird species, some of which are highly endangered, can be observed on the lake and the bird island. An overview of current sightings can be found on the Internet. The LBV offers guided tours of the bird island nature reserve on the Altmühlsee. (Tel. 09831 4820)

Have you made any interesting ornithological observations around the Altmühlsee? Then you can help to deepen our knowledge of biodiversity. Simply write an e-mail to the LBV.

Is there still time before the train departs and you want to replenish your energy stores with Franconian specialities after the long hike? Then you'll be spoilt for choice: you've already passed the sun terrace of the country inn-café "Zur Jägerluck" (Tel. 09831 2833) on Stadelner Straße. Or would you prefer the inn "Zum Hirschen" (Tel: 09831 3940) in the extension of Bahnhofstraße?

To get to the railway station, head east from Schlossstraße back onto Kirchenstraße. At Rosenau, turn right into Bahnhofstraße and follow it to your departure point.